Edition #159: What I'd Do In New York If I Were You

Don't call it a city guide. Plus, a beautiful, color-coded map for your travels.

Remember when I said I was going to send this out not-weekly, but still on Thursdays? Well what do you know, life had other plans in the form of five deadlines in one week! I didn’t want to wait until Thursday again, so here we are. I’m thinking going rogue is the new Thursday. Would love to hear your thoughts.

Anyway, on to the goods: my non-city-guide *guide* to NYC, AKA all the spots I love and would suggest to a friend. Don’t miss the beautiful, OCD Google Map I made for you at the end.

---

A Note From the Editor

I was technically born in New York—Long Island, not the city—but my parents moved to Florida just three months in to my life. Despite my cowtown Florida upbringing, New York runs deep in my veins. My mother is from Brooklyn, my father from Queens. The men in my fathers family have a long history of construction accidents pertaining to major New York landmarks being built—my great uncle fell off the Brooklyn Bridge, while my great-grandfather fell off the Empire State Building and lived to tell the tale. They wanted to interview him for the news afterward, but when he found out they wouldn’t pay him for it, he refused. Irish immigrants were not compensated for such accidents, even fatal ones, back then. I respect him for trying to get that money. American assimilation at its finest!

The first time I ever made it to New York City proper I was 12 years old. I rode the Long Island Railroad with my older teenaged cousin and in an hour we were in Manhattan. I don’t remember the finer details of the day, whether I was wowed by the big city or overwhelmed by its chaos, but I do remember going to Forever 21 and buying fishnet tights. We got a caricature done, ate lunch at Reb Lobster in Times Square, and saw Chicago on Broadway. Twelve-year-old me thought the movie was better.

Where to Embrace the Arts:

• 2nd Stage Theatre | If you see a show either one of 2nd Stage’s venues, chances are you’ll read about the playwright/the show in some big pub like the New York Times shortly thereafter. By that I mean, 2nd Stage is very much on the pulse of American theatre. If you’re currently in New York, try to snag tickets to this. They rush a few tickets on the TodayTix app every morning at 9am.

• Brownstone Jazz | One of my best kept NYC secrets; I’ve gone twice and I’ll go again. A jazz trio with great chemistry who have played with all the heavy hitters, a historic brownstone in BedStuy plus BYOB. Just trust me.

• Ballet at Lincoln Center } Or really anything at Lincoln Center—they put on some cool experimental plays throughout the year as well. Get a little dressy, have a cocktail beforehand, lose yourself in the artistry. Spending time in this particular part of the Upper West Side feels very *New York*.

• Rockwood Music Hall | Anytime I feel like seeing live music in New York, I go here. Two small stages, sometimes ticketed, sometimes not, an unfussy bar, and almost always great talent.

The next time I was in New York City I was 19-years-old, interning for a big, glamorous, all pink PR agency on Park Avenue. I was a very broke college student living with two roommates in Washington Heights and had no idea what I was getting into with a full time unpaid internship in a city like New York. Amongst my intern colleagues: a girl whose father was the former CEO of The Gap, a girl whose father owned all the concrete in Delaware, and a girl whose mother was a celebrity dermatologist.

I got my PhD in pretending to be unfazed that summer—by the celebrities who would casually stop by the office, filling pink tote bags with beautiful clothing and jewelry and makeup. By the impossibly lavish children’s birthday parties I would attend while nannying for a family in East Hampton. By the teeny tiny salaries of those ultra-glam PR girls I admired; a discovery that made me begin to reconsider the desirability of the profession.

That summer is when I learned that in order to survive in New York, you must refuse to give too many fucks. Being unfazed is its own form of currency.

Where to Casually Cry in Public:

• The Met Sculpture Court | You don’t even have to be sad to cry here, you might cry over the sheer beauty of it. After shedding some tears, stop by the gift shop and buy a cute hat.

• Washington Square Park | There is so much going on here on any given day that you can openly sob on a bench and chances are no one will acknowledge you. Also, you should take a long, circular lap around the park and read the bench dedications as you go. If you weren’t crying already, you will be soon.

• The subway | Preferably not the L; the A/C and F/D trains work well. Pull your hat down, blast music in your headphones so you don’t hear your own whimpers, and let it rip!

Where to Get Pampered:

• Pelo Salon | Jesse Kaman, Pelo’s owner, is the only person in NYC who I will let touch my hair. She’s a genius.

• Ji Li Tui-Na | It isn’t fancy, but it is the best massage I’ve ever had in my life—it is also under $50 for an hour as of 2024. Cash only and you must tip JJ generously (says me).

• Boom Boom Brow Bar | Walk into this place on any given day and you’ll find a yorkie putzing around and colorful push up bras strewn over the crystal chandler. Shamelessly over the top and a bit overpriced, about $38 for a wax, but worth it in my book.

My first apartment in the city was a converted three-bedroom in the East Village. Alphabet City, to be exact. Our living area had no windows, but we did have a rooftop with a sweet view. My father, who was a cop in New York City in the ‘80s, told me to watch out for the Hell’s Angels.

I never did run into any members of the defunct biker gang during my four-year tenure in the neighborhood, nor did I experience the spirited brand of artistic debauchery promised to me in Rent. Still, I did plenty of good living in this grimy little corner of the city.

What To Eat, Drink, and Do in East Village/LES:

Eat:

• Tompkins Square Bagels } One of those annoying spots with a line where waiting in the line is actually worth it. Cash only, a disaster at peak hangover weekend times (10am-1pm Saturday and Sunday).

• Ray’s Candy Store | To be properly inducted into the neighborhood, you must go out to a bunch of bars and then come here for late-night fries, chicken tenders, and beignets.

• Kings County Imperial | A solid staples for a perfectly good dinner when you don’t have a plan. Pork long dumplings, angry pig fried rice, and wok fried soy beans are the way to go.

• The Bao | The only place you need to go for soup dumplings and noodles on Saint Marks.

• Upstate Craft Beer & Oyster Bar | The best fresh seafood spot in the neighborhood. A low-key vibe and an oyster happy hour that goes from 5-7pm each day.

• Bobwhite Counter | Exceptional fried chicken.

• Sunny and Annie’s | The gold standard of bodegas. So many sandwich options, so little time.

• Doughnut Plant | I have never, ever been disappointed by this place. Eating the blueberry cake donut feels like the first time every time. Their coffee is also great.

• Lady Wong Pastry and Cakes | An impeccable southeast Asian bakery. These pastries are pretty and delicious.

• Petee’s Pie Company | The kind of pie you'll eat once and be thinking about for years. Sour NY cherry is my favorite, followed by the salty chocolate chess. 

• Essex Market | Like Chelsea Market but cooler and less touristy. Get a greasy diner breakfast at Shopsin, exceptional fake cheese at Riverdel Vegan Cheese Counter, or a glass of wine at People’s Wine Shop at The Market Line. There’s a Regal movie theatre attached if you’re feeling crazy, though I’d opt for a nearby indie theater instead.

Drink:

• Alphabet City Wine Co. | The best wine shop in the neighborhood.

• Lovers of Today | A little subterranean cocktail bar. Dimly lit, sexy, perfect for dates, and every so often they’ll random open the secret back room that took me years to discover.

• Holiday Cocktail Lounge | Pretty sure this is the bar in the iconic opening scene of Past Lives, but that's not why I like it. Good cocktails, not too many 20-year-olds but also not stuffy. 

• Ten Degrees | Is this bar particularly cool? Not really. Is it sceney? Also no. But does it have a buy one get one happy hour every day? Yes.

• Ruffian | A cute, well-done natural wine bar. If I recall correctly, you typically need a reservation during peak hours. 

Do:

• 6th and B Garden | Elizabeth Street Garden gets all the hype, but this one is the most charming garden in NYC. Petite, well-maintained, the occasional live poetry reading. They even have a little tree house you can sit in and pretend you’re in charge of it all. Bring a book, sit for hours, forget you’re in a city.

• Tompkins Square Park | You can watch the dogs, you can be accosted by a bad punk rock band on Sunday’s, you can play ping pong. The weird and wonderful world of this park if your oyster.

• BonBon Swedish Candy Co. | If you're still lying to yourself saying adults don't like candy, come here and let your mind be changed. Nothing turns a glum day around like filling a pink paper bag with a bunch of sour gummies and licorices you might spit out after one bite.

Miracle of miracles: after four years of room mates and 15 minute walks to the subway, I landed in Greenwich Village. When I was deciding whether or not to take the apartment, one of my best friends kept saying, “But Meghan, one day you’re going to be able to say you liked in Greenwich Village. Greenwich Village!”

And she was right. It was my Sex and the City era, my dinner party hosting/independent woman/struggling writer/budding artist era. No roommates, just five flights of stairs, my sweet 90-year-old neighbor, and my cozy little jewel box apartment.

What To Eat, Drink, and Do in Greenwich Village/West Village:

Eat:

• Emily’s West Village | This might be a pizza restaurant, but you come here for the best burger in New York—quite possibly the best burger of your life. I do not say that lightly. If you ever have the chance to eat this superb burger, you must come back to me with your review.

• L’Artusi | New York is fully of fancy, overpriced Italian places. This is my favorite amongst them. Try the olive oil cake.

• Monte’s Trattoria | In a neighborhood where overhyped Italian runs rampant (see above), you need an underrated institution like this in your back pocket. The chef will be wearing a big white chef's hat, the owner and his grown-man son will be wearing pinky rings and schmoozing a table of middle-aged ladies from Long Island, the waiters will be disgruntled, and you’ll be delighted.

• Raoul’s | Perfect for a sexy NYC sexy experience. Don’t wait in line early for the burger—too much peppercorn. Do sit at the bar, order a dirty martini and steak frites, and observe the cast of downtown New York characters.

• Pommes Frites | A giant cone of crispy fries and a side of aioli, aka mayo, is the move.

• Leons Bagels | A hip bagel counter whose line gets long. Order online ahead for pickup if you want to embrace your inner impatient New Yorker

• Pasticceria Rocco | Never say no to a cannoli from a proper Italian bakery. 

• Mah-Ze-Dahr Bakery | Call me when they bring back the old fashioned sour cream donut.

• Dominique Ansel | There might be a line of tourists waiting outside, but there’s a good reason. Ansel, inventor of the cronut, is a pastry genius. Go early and on a weekday, order a cronut—there’s only ever one flavor at a time, rotating monthly—sit in the covered backyard garden, and thank me later.

Drink:

• St. Jardim | A pretty cafe filled with pretty people. It works just as well for a glass of wine the evening.

• Jones Street Wine | A sweet little wine shop where you feel like everyone is your friend.

• Little Branch | A guy took me here for a nightcap here once and I almost fell in love with him because this place was so charming. Quaint, underground, live jazz. Order an Old Fashioned.

• Katana Kitten | A little bit kitschy, but you can almost always find a seat and there is almost always a fun vibe cooking up. Get the nori fries and a shiso gin and tonic.

• Analogue | For such a reliable cocktail bar and date spot, this place manages to retain some sexiness. Let your waiter pick your cocktail and stroll through Washington Square Park pleasantly buzzed afterward.

• The Garret | Walk through Five Guys to get to this hidden upstairs bar. You do not want to come on a weekend evening when the place is overtaken with 20-year-olds—it’s best suited for a random week day when you want the chance to get a little more wild, or when you want to impress an out-of-towner.

Do:

• Three Lives & Company |  My favorite local bookstore. For a petite shop there are always at least four people *working* and by that I mean talking about the New York literary scene with one another.

• Paquita | After you get your book stroll over to this quaint tea shop. They’ll bring you your tea in a beautiful pot and you’ll feel like you’re living in a Renaissance painting.

• Porto Rico Importing Co. | I’ve searched high and low for the perfect coffee beans—not too acidic, smooth, dark and rich—and found them here in the French Mexican blend. An old school coffee place with an insane variety of beans, plus a coffee counter with a generous punch card system.

• Angelika Film Center and Cafe | My favorite movie theater in NYC. Order a giant lemon bar at the upstairs cafe and a giant popcorn downstairs. Guaranteed stomach ache, guaranteed fun. If you sign up for a membership, you can attend their free surprise monthly screenings. AMC? Never met her.

• Modo Yoga | A superb hot vinyasa studio with some of the most skilled instructors I’ve ever practiced with. Take from Lyss (very hard!), Randy, or Val. Don’t sleep on the Sunday night yin.

• Raffeto’s | If you’re ever cooking dinner for someone and you want to impress them with minimal effort, come here for fresh pasta and insane Italian sausages.

• Pop Up Grocer | A shoppy shop with substance. Good for browsing and buying fancy snacks you don’t need.

• Comedy Cellar | It’s a New York institution for a reason, folks.

• Picnic on the Hudson River Greenway | Get snacks from the Trader Joe’s on Spring Street, get a bottle of wine from The Wine Hut, bring a blanket and watch the sun set from the grass (both real and fake, your choice).

If you ever travel to NYC, if you know someone who is going to NYC, or if you live in NYC and want easy access to my recommendations, save this map for future use. And if you send mp map to a friend, you have to make them sign up for this newsletter!

Pro tip: open the map in a browser and click on each location to read my notes about what makes the spot worth checking out.

Cheers, my dears, and as always thank you for reading—and for bearing with me as I find my footing with newsletter timing in the New Year. I write to you from Costa Rica, where I’ve been for two weeks now! Re-adapting to life in the jungle, catching multiple spiders in my house on the daily, surfing, eating papaya, writing a lot, sleeping soundly. So far, so good!

Have a wonderful week. Pet a dog, make breakfast tacos, read a poem aloud. Until next time.

---

**Bonus Content** (Damn, My Friends Are Cool)

Two of my best friends and I do this thing called Taxi Cab Confessions where we send the group a voice note fresh after a particularly charged experience—we used to send them exclusively for dates, but these days we’ll send them after all sorts of situations.

Anyway, last week I was a little tipsy and sent a long, rambling TCC after an encounter I was particularly nervous about. Leave it to your creative friends to turn your tipsy ramblings into something beautiful.

---

A Quote From A Book You Should Read:

“The first place you live alone, away from your family, he said, is the first place you become a person, the first place you become yourself.

-Severance by Ling Ma

---

If you look forward to reading this newsletter and want to support its continuation, consider becoming a paid subscriber!